Survivalknife


The purpose of this knife was to design a cutting tool for all-around use. It had to be small enough to be carried on the body with out ant hassle. It should also be powerful enough to do serious hard work, in the addition to the necessary ergonomics.
- The handle has a barrel shape, the ideal form for knives.
- The finger guard prevents the hand from slipping on to the blade, but without being too much in the way during use.
- The full tang construction protrude the handle scales to for pounding with the end of the handle. This enables the knife to be hammered into trees for chopping.
- The guard and choil is narrow to let the hand be close to the edge. This is necessary to do power cuts with a good grip.
- A large part of the edge is straight for wood working.
- A small radii at the belly for higher pressure during work.
With A8-mod heat treated to 60 HRC in a thickness of 5 mm it will withstand much more force than one man can inflict without serious tools to help him. This is also one of few steel used for knives that can withstand heavy blows with hard objects without breakage.
The knife can be supplied with both wood and composite handle, satin and beadblasted blade finish, and kydex, leather and nylon sheath.

Handle materials


I prefer to use either G-10 or canvas micarta on my knives. These are composite materials with high strength and wear resistance, they do not absorb any water, need any post treatment or are prone to cracking. G-10 is glass fiber reinforced and micarta is reinforced with canvas fiber. The handles are bead blasted to get a coarse surface to improve the grip in wet conditions. The standard color is black on G-10 and green on the micarta, but I usually have other colors in stock. For winter use I have white linen micarta for camouflage purposes (for those who need it), and white kydex is also available. The smaller knives will sometimes have handles of coarse textured G-10 in black or ranger green.

For polished handles, for a more elegant look linen micarta is recommended. The finer structure in the fibers in this material is better suited for polishing and gives a nice appearance. On the other hand, blasting of linen micarta gives less improved grip and a pale grey look, and should not be done.

For the traditional customers I supply curly birch (“valbjørk”). This is the most used handle material in Norway, and can have a dens pattern of flames and bark particles. This material demands better maintenance and I do not take any responsibility for damage of the handle during use.

Sheaths

Different types of sheaths are available for the survival knife, depending on how you prefer to carry it.

Kydex is a heat formable thermoplastic acrylic-polyvinyl chloride alloy material with good wear resistance and impregnable to water and bacteria. In some cases is has been known to brake (probably with intention), and the use in very low temperatures should be consider carefully and preferably tested. Most plastics have what is known as “glass temperature”, and below this the plastic will brake with a brittle fracture, like glass.
The kydex sheath are either fixed with a nylon web or a “tek-lok”. The widest webbings (43 mm) I use are MIL-W-4088 type 7 (Coded with dotted yellow line down the sides) or MIL-W-4088 type 13, both resin treated to MIL-W-27265(R). The slimmer types is generic nylon webbing, but with a quality that seems very good.
Other types of kydex sheaths and mounting systems are available on request.

I am no expert on leather, so I won’t go into details about the properties. It is usually no problem with this material, unless one is in a tropical rainforest where the combination of humidity, heat and bacteria can eat the stuff up, or just under water.
I prefer thick leather in the sheaths, around 3.5-4 mm. This makes the sheath stiff and gives a quality feeling. The standard sheath is of a regular pouch type with ample room for the belt. I also make horizontal sheaths for carrying in the belt on the back or on MOLLE-rigs. Other than that my leather is ruff stuff, and I don’t do decorations.














The nylon sheaths are specially made for me by Combatkit, and have a formed PVC reinforcement to protect the blade. These are available in black or olive drab. These are not the best sheaths, but will work as an extra sheath.





The standard sheaths are black kydex for knives with composite handles and pouch type leather for knives with wooden handles. Kydex is not available for knives with wood handle due to poorer wear resistance in the wood, and it really doesn’t look good. There is no problem in using leather sheaths with knives with composite handles. Both the leather sheaths and the nylon sheaths can be supplied as aftermarket parts, but as the kydex are formed specifically for each knife, the knife has to be returned for the fitting of new kydex.

Graham Brothers Ringed Razel

Another style for the Razel!

















 
 
 


Bark River Knife and Tool - Bravo 1

Great survival knife!

Different variations are available!

Email me for more information volclaedesign@gmail.com









































 

additional attatchments: Fire steel loop. This can be fastened on the side or
will fit on the bottom eyelets as well.


Slightly altered set up for a customer;

    

Ive designed a somewhat new layout for my logo/ font on my logo.

Let me know what you think!!

Ka-Bar/ Becker Knife & Tool (My Camp knife)


































This is one of the bigger more popular knives that I do have on hand and we can make you the same sheath you see here, or one more suitable to your needs!

Thanks for looking!

MV