Arduino Stepper Motor Control

I've had a number of stepper motors sitting in my shop for years. If we really want to do anything fun with our Arduino, we are eventually going to have to run a stepper motor. So, here we go!


A little background on stepper motors and how they are different compared to a typical electric motor. Unlike a conventional electric motor that spins when power is applied, stepper motors incrementally spin (step), allowing control over exactly how far the motor's shaft spins, even to the degree.
Stepper motors have a series of electromagnets that encircle an armature containing a magnet. Think of a compass with a shaft attached to the center of the needle. That needle becomes like the armature of the motor. To spin the armature, electromagnets are turned on and off around the outside of the compass, causing the needle to "step" (or point) from one electromagnet to the next. This picture may help illustrate the movement within a stepper motor.

There are two common types of stepper motors: Bipolar and Unipolar See this article to help explain the differences. I've chosen to use a bipolar stepper motor in this project. It can be somewhat more difficult to use because of the need to reverse polarity on the stepper motor electromagnets to provide the proper stepping. Here's a couple pictures of the motor I used:

A bipolar stepper motor has two electromagnetic winding sets. Because of this, it's necessary to use some circuit to reverse the polarity of the winding. A common way to do this is through the use of an H-Bridge circuit.

I used this circuit to create my H-Bridge controller:

I implemented the circuit on a perf board with a small 6 pin 90 degree header. I also added some LEDs to the circuit, just because everyone likes blinking lights, and I'm no exceptions. After all, that's what got me into this as a child ... blinking lights. Here's a picture of the H-Bridge:

I used the following diagram to pull the whole circuit together. There is an Inferred LED Interrupt sensor in this diagram. I'll talk about that in a subsequent post, so disregard for now.

I loaded the following very simple circuit onto the Arduino. It sets the speed of the motor to 10 RPM. Also, it turns the motor one revolution and then waits 2 seconds before looping.

#include

//create an instance of a stepper motor object
Stepper stepper(96, 8, 9, 10, 11);

void setup()
{
// set the speed of the motor to 10 RPMs
stepper.setSpeed(10);
}

void loop()
{
stepper.step(96); //on revolution
delay(2000); //wait 2 seconds
}

Lastly, here's a video to show this program in action with the whole circuit:





Bark River Bravo 1, New pics

new pics and a ferro rod loop addition







































































I have plenty of this "latigo" style leather on hand if you would like this textured look for your sheath!


MV

volclaedesign@gmail.com

Ray Laconico "Project W"

A quick "panckae" sheath for a small camp knife by Ray Laconico!

Ray makes some of the best looking utility knives out there!














































This particular sheath is without a kydex liner.

volclaedesign@gmail.com

Here is my latest kydex work. The knife is one of the prototypes of the survivalknife, and I sold it about a year ago. This is so far the only knife I have made with serrations, and that was only done due to special requirements from the customer. The sheath supplied at that time was of a very basic type, so the owner wanted an updated kydex sheath. For more information about the materials see the sheath-article.

Some Random additions

Ontario - Rat 5

Another one for the Graham Brothers Ringed Razel
Razel

S.O.G. FatCat (special request)
Fun to do!





Survivalknife


The purpose of this knife was to design a cutting tool for all-around use. It had to be small enough to be carried on the body with out ant hassle. It should also be powerful enough to do serious hard work, in the addition to the necessary ergonomics.
- The handle has a barrel shape, the ideal form for knives.
- The finger guard prevents the hand from slipping on to the blade, but without being too much in the way during use.
- The full tang construction protrude the handle scales to for pounding with the end of the handle. This enables the knife to be hammered into trees for chopping.
- The guard and choil is narrow to let the hand be close to the edge. This is necessary to do power cuts with a good grip.
- A large part of the edge is straight for wood working.
- A small radii at the belly for higher pressure during work.
With A8-mod heat treated to 60 HRC in a thickness of 5 mm it will withstand much more force than one man can inflict without serious tools to help him. This is also one of few steel used for knives that can withstand heavy blows with hard objects without breakage.
The knife can be supplied with both wood and composite handle, satin and beadblasted blade finish, and kydex, leather and nylon sheath.

Handle materials


I prefer to use either G-10 or canvas micarta on my knives. These are composite materials with high strength and wear resistance, they do not absorb any water, need any post treatment or are prone to cracking. G-10 is glass fiber reinforced and micarta is reinforced with canvas fiber. The handles are bead blasted to get a coarse surface to improve the grip in wet conditions. The standard color is black on G-10 and green on the micarta, but I usually have other colors in stock. For winter use I have white linen micarta for camouflage purposes (for those who need it), and white kydex is also available. The smaller knives will sometimes have handles of coarse textured G-10 in black or ranger green.

For polished handles, for a more elegant look linen micarta is recommended. The finer structure in the fibers in this material is better suited for polishing and gives a nice appearance. On the other hand, blasting of linen micarta gives less improved grip and a pale grey look, and should not be done.

For the traditional customers I supply curly birch (“valbjørk”). This is the most used handle material in Norway, and can have a dens pattern of flames and bark particles. This material demands better maintenance and I do not take any responsibility for damage of the handle during use.

Sheaths

Different types of sheaths are available for the survival knife, depending on how you prefer to carry it.

Kydex is a heat formable thermoplastic acrylic-polyvinyl chloride alloy material with good wear resistance and impregnable to water and bacteria. In some cases is has been known to brake (probably with intention), and the use in very low temperatures should be consider carefully and preferably tested. Most plastics have what is known as “glass temperature”, and below this the plastic will brake with a brittle fracture, like glass.
The kydex sheath are either fixed with a nylon web or a “tek-lok”. The widest webbings (43 mm) I use are MIL-W-4088 type 7 (Coded with dotted yellow line down the sides) or MIL-W-4088 type 13, both resin treated to MIL-W-27265(R). The slimmer types is generic nylon webbing, but with a quality that seems very good.
Other types of kydex sheaths and mounting systems are available on request.

I am no expert on leather, so I won’t go into details about the properties. It is usually no problem with this material, unless one is in a tropical rainforest where the combination of humidity, heat and bacteria can eat the stuff up, or just under water.
I prefer thick leather in the sheaths, around 3.5-4 mm. This makes the sheath stiff and gives a quality feeling. The standard sheath is of a regular pouch type with ample room for the belt. I also make horizontal sheaths for carrying in the belt on the back or on MOLLE-rigs. Other than that my leather is ruff stuff, and I don’t do decorations.














The nylon sheaths are specially made for me by Combatkit, and have a formed PVC reinforcement to protect the blade. These are available in black or olive drab. These are not the best sheaths, but will work as an extra sheath.





The standard sheaths are black kydex for knives with composite handles and pouch type leather for knives with wooden handles. Kydex is not available for knives with wood handle due to poorer wear resistance in the wood, and it really doesn’t look good. There is no problem in using leather sheaths with knives with composite handles. Both the leather sheaths and the nylon sheaths can be supplied as aftermarket parts, but as the kydex are formed specifically for each knife, the knife has to be returned for the fitting of new kydex.